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Author Topic: mont blanc  (Read 1934 times)
Allyc
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« on: June 06, 2010, 12:33:24 PM »

hi guys i am hoping to climb mont blanc next year using the gouter route as im aware its just the standard level rock climb at one stage. i want to do it unguided. HOWEVER ive no experience in winter travel or climbing, do plenty of walking round mournes all year and abit of map reading,also done a few courses rock climbing. ive heard that its a most that you can use an ice axe "self arrest" but is there ways that you can secure your self to ropes ie bosses ridge and other steep parts! Wher wud i start getting the experience for this any info will be most helpful,
thanks!!!!!!!
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Liam Fahy
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« Reply #1 on: June 08, 2010, 02:04:42 PM »

I arrived in Chamonix in 2005 to climb Mount Blanc as I was in the area and fancied climbing to the highest point in every country I visited.  I hadn’t climbed in winter conditions and had never been to the Alps before.  I bought a map, a guide book, had a long look at the mountain and went and did something else.

We have a tendency to think that rock is the only difficulty we are going to encounter in the mountains and that if there is no “real rock climbing” or the rock is within our grade then there is nothing else that will pose a problem.  But mountains are made of more than rock and on big mountains the rock can often be the easier and safer option.  In short you need to get some experience on snow, ice and on glaciers (summer Alpine is not the same as winter Scotland but all mountain experience counts).

My advice is go to the Alps this summer and do a basic or intermediate alpine course this will give you a good taste of what’s involved and a year to prepare yourself for it.  Tell the instructor what you intend doing and they will give you all the advice you need.  If that’s not an option thin go to the MI Alpine meet and do a one or two day glacier travel course, talk to lots of other climbers hook up with them for a climb if you can and then yourself and your climbing partner can get a handle on what’s involved.

Some useful links:
http://www.mountaineering.ie/trainingandsafety/tier1viewdetials.asp?ID=24&Tier1ID=96
http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,2829.0.html


Hope that’s of some help.


Liam.
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Nicole
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« Reply #2 on: June 10, 2010, 09:57:20 AM »

hi guys i am hoping to climb mont blanc next year using the gouter route as im aware its just the standard level rock climb at one stage. i want to do it unguided. HOWEVER ive no experience in winter travel or climbing, do plenty of walking round mournes all year and abit of map reading,also done a few courses rock climbing. ive heard that its a most that you can use an ice axe "self arrest" but is there ways that you can secure your self to ropes ie bosses ridge and other steep parts! Wher wud i start getting the experience for this any info will be most helpful,
thanks!!!!!!!


If you are looking to get experience before you go the Summer Alpine Meet would be a good place to get some experience from guides and experienced mountaineers. Prices have been reduced further to try to accommodate people - http://www.mountaineering.ie/events/viewdetails.asp?ID=371
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Luke Stratford
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« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2010, 08:49:09 AM »

Hi Ally!

I'm writing from my campsite in Les Bossons, about a mile down the road from Chamonix. I have been pushed off Mt Blanc three times in the last ten days by bad conditions. The very first thing I should say is that if you want to climb the mountain, especially unguided, then aim to come here for at least two weeks, if you can book a month, even better! The single biggest reason for not succeeding is the weather. For example, three times now I've been pushed off by extreme winds, lightning, avalanche and rockfall risk, and visibility down to 5m making navigation impossible. This has been a very bad year for Mt blanc so far, the path from Nid d'Aigle to the Tete Rousse glacier...there is no path! There is almost a complete blanket of snow right down to 2300m, so right now, you either need a guide (and no cloud or wind), or you need to be n excellent navigator, with little interest in self preservation.

At the same time, it's perfectly possible than in two weeks, all that snow will be gone and you can see the path. All you need then is a good clear day and anyone with no experience in track shoes and jeans could hike all the way up to the Gouter.

So the technical difficulty of the climb is very low, but what I see here all the time is people who are only here for 1 week or even a long weekend trying to force a way up a very difficult and dangerous mountain route, as are the current conditions. So I would say with your experience to make sure you come here for long enough to wait for good weather and snow conditions. If you get to climb in the first few days, then no harm!

There is absolutely no need, as suggested, to fork out hundreds of euro for so called 'mountaineering' courses. If you do a LOT of studying on your own (there's hundreds of books from which you can learn all the technical skills you need, as well as studying mountain weather, avalanche awareness, crevasse rescue, nutrition etc), as well as a lot, and I mean a LOT, of hiking with a heavy pack and as much height gain as possible, then all you need to do is come to Chamonix for a month, find partners (easy, people everywhere happy to help) and go out for a few sunny days on the Mer de Glace to practice everything you've learned. Then you'll be ready! If however, you are lazy and don't want to study alone or find partners to practice the essential skills with in a safe place, then by all means spend all your cash on courses Smiley

Or you can do what lots of others do, take the fist tram or cable car in the morning and follow behind the guided groups. Not good when you lose them though.

I'm lucky that I'm here for the season, so while others might succeed in forcing a way up, and happy in the knowledge that I can return to the mountain when conditions improve. In the meantime, I can hang around in the campsite slackining etc, or go rock climbing, ice bouldering. I'm telling you it's the way to go.

Good luck!
« Last Edit: June 21, 2010, 08:52:02 AM by Luke Stratford » Logged
Stephen McMullan
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« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2010, 11:54:53 AM »

Great report Luke! Good luck and keep pluggin' away.
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harr
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« Reply #5 on: June 21, 2010, 03:24:22 PM »

I wouldn’t be so quick to knock the course route to getting experience, there is a hell of a lot to be learned and if you get a good instructor and pick their brains it makes life a lot safer when you do head out on your own. Of course if your stuck for cash there are cheap ways to picking up experience, namely climbing with other more experienced climbers and learning their good\bad habits or, if you have unlimited time (a season in Cham, lucky b*^%!"£) the trial and error method works. Just don’t take any one individuals word as gospel, it all works they just require different things to make them work, time, money, friends who’ve done it all before you...

Happy Climbing!
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John Harrison
Luke Stratford
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« Reply #6 on: June 21, 2010, 03:58:51 PM »

Actually, having had a bit more of a think about it, I would say there is a place for taking courses... perhaps you have a very hectic work/family life and for one reason or another you don't have the time for a longer trip to the mountains, or to study on your own, or find partners. By all means if cash is not an issue then yes of course you can learn a huge amount  very quickly by taking a mountaineering course.

That said, if you have the time (and an Alpinist must) then the money is better spent on a longer time in the mountains, meeting and climbing with as many new people as possible. Most are happy to share what they know, after all sharing is the spirit of Alpinism, not summits Smiley

Just my opinion, I totally agree with harr, the more opinions you get the better your overall picture. Bonne chance...
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Rob N
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« Reply #7 on: June 21, 2010, 08:14:33 PM »

hay luke,

sound for the weather report! how long are you over for? heading on the 2nd of july with a few mates to climb mont blanc and some other stuff. be great to get some more info on conditions next week to help us plan climbs Wink
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Ste
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« Reply #8 on: June 22, 2010, 11:30:31 AM »

be great to get some more info on conditions next week to help us plan climbs Wink


This page has a lot of good links to weather and conditions reports for chamonix :

http://www.alpine-guides.com/alpine%20conditions.htm

And should help you piece together what weather you should expect.

I was in chamonix on the 11th-15th of June, and we managed to get our 2-day climb in on what I think may have been a weekend of mediocre weather caught between two weeks of strong foehn wind and general rubbish conditions.
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Luke Stratford
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« Reply #9 on: June 22, 2010, 05:36:15 PM »

chamonix-meteo.com is your place to get the weather, it's what the guides point at when you askk about conditions at the office de la haute montagne. Pay special attention to the forecast reliability.

Yesterday and today were magnificent mornings, with no cloud and the dome de gouter and the summit clearly visible until about 2pm, after which they clouded and I suspect a blizzard is still blowing up there now. A very early night time start is needed at the min to summit and get down safe. The problem at the minute seems to be getting up through cloud and winds to the Gouter. all that waist deep snow too.

Personally I'm waiting another week or so (rock climbing friends are visiting in the meantime) until there's less snow and it gets a bit warmer. 3 days ago everything I had (insulated water bottles, all the food, my rucksack snaplinks etc froze solid because of windchill at 2400. Seriously not nice. Apparantly it's been an awful year so far with rain/snow and it's usually warmer by now. By the time you're here it should be grand though.

I'm here until the money runs out, probably head over to Ailefroid for the meet and then Cham/Zermatt, might be home by mid August, or September we'll see.

Are you looking at technical climbs or going for peaks?
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Allyc
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« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2010, 09:42:58 PM »

Thanks for the info mate, all sounds reasonable enough. wish ya all the best over there hope weather picks up!! thanks again!
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Luke Stratford
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« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2010, 09:13:32 AM »

Summitted  yesterday Smiley in perfect conditions, incredible how easy it can be when the weather's on your side!

Went up with two others via the three monts travese of Mt Blanc du Tacul and Mt Maudit in two stages so the others could acclimatise. Took the last cable car on Sunday to Aiguille du Midi, camped in the Valee Blanche at 3530m. Monday we climbed the Tacul and pitched camp in the Col du Tacul, just over the shoulder at 4000m, and yesterday we started at 1am from there and summited with the sunrise around 6ish. Decended by the Gouter route and took the cable car down from Bellvue.

I'd strongly recommend the three monts over the Gouter as it's a far more aesthetic route, the Tacul and Mt Maudit are awesome climbs in themselves and it's incredible crossing the Col de la Brenva with the sunrise. Also there were only about three other teams around and well spaced so we did not meet. The descent by the Gouter was really not nice because of the masses of guides and horribly unfit and unnaclimatised tourists causing blockages at every bottleneck and kicking rocks all over the place on the Aiguille de Gouter spur above the Grand Couloir. Half of these rocks of course end up flying down the couloir which you have to cross at the bottom. When we were a third of the way across, another foolish team started towards us from the other side, which I found incredible since it only takes 30 seconds to cross and the path was just wide enough for single file, so we had to fumble around each other in the middle with rocks flying.

Anyhoo just another day in Chamonix...
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adagio
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« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2010, 09:48:44 AM »

Nice one Luke.. I'm sooooo envious!!
I was due to leave for Chamonix yesterday but it went tits up  Cry
I'll console myself by reading your reports and repeating the mantra..'next year, next year,next year..etc'
Enjoy. 
A.
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« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2010, 11:56:13 AM »

Nice Luke! Well done.
Whats next on the list out there?
That North of the Tacul traverse is like a game of roulette..those seraccs like to blow at anytime..last couple of trips I did out there, there were large groups wiped out on it. Glad you made it through without incident!
What're conditions like up high at the moment? Much snowfall during that bad weather?
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Luke Stratford
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« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2010, 12:21:44 PM »

Yeah those seracs were pretty big but things are fairly stable at the moment and we went under them at around 2am so at least it was well below freezing and we couldn't see them too clearly!

Up high is great right now, after all that bad weather the last few weeks we've had a week of hot days and cold nights, about a week since heavy snow so things are settled. Some hail still on the slopes which can be slippy and slows things down. Usual localized storms every afternoon. Snowline up to about 3000m so the Nid d'aigle to Tete Rousse is clear nd rocky.

Next... tomorrow heading up for the NF's of Tour Ronde and the Triangle if conditions allow...
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