Boreholes in Dalkey

[markd]

Out in Dalkey for the first time today and did a route (EREWHON) and was wondering whether the grade they give it is taking into account the boreholes or without? I´m guessing it´s with them but not 100% sure. Cheers

[Stephen McMullan]

Its graded with boreholes

[markd]

Thanks. Was just thinking that if I was putting gear in I probably wouldn´t have been able to use them anyway 

[Stephen McMullan]

its mostly soloed (and of course toproped  )

[stevewales0]

what you need is the Dalkey Tricam, fits perfectly into the shot-holes

[Didds]

Thanks. Was just thinking that if I was putting gear in I probably wouldn´t have been able to use them anyway 

Yup, you'll deck. crash pad at the bottom and spotter is best piece of pro you could use there.

[markd]

Thanks. Was just thinking that if I was putting gear in I probably wouldn´t have been able to use them anyway 

Yup, you'll deck. crash pad at the bottom and spotter is best piece of pro you could use there.

Makes sense, the crux for me anyway isn´t that high up.

[Tony Groves]

I thought the boreholes on that route were too shallow to take tricams (or anything else, which is why I never did it)?

[Eoriain]

I thought the boreholes on that route were too shallow to take tricams (or anything else, which is why I never did it)?

the lower one can take a tricam the higher one is to shallow
a spotter and good bouldering mat is still the best piece of protection for the top

[Stephen McMullan]

I don't think its graded with a bouldering mat in mind. Ooooh controversial 

[Ste]

Its graded with boreholes

As gear, sure. But as holds?

[Stephen McMullan]

Yes. There are a lot of boreholes in a lot of routes in Dalkey given its history as a quarry. In fact you'd be hard pushed to avoid them. Some of them are deep holes which can take gear, others are not, they are used as hand and footholds and the grade reflects that. If you can do the route without or just using them for gear placement then great but thats your choice and you're making it harder for yourself.

[Eoriain]

it must be graded with the boreholds in for gear and as holds
and you can use the lower one for both, which will help protect for what most people consider the crux
so out of interest what would the grade be as a bouldering problem?

[Stephen McMullan]

Font5, V0/1?

Its really more about having the cojones than it being technically hard?

I'm going back a bit but I think I found moving off the second borehole the hard bit for me.

Brian Callan back in the day (no pads) fell off the top and through some strange trajectory landed in a heap in the gorse. Prickly 

[Didds]

I don't think its graded with a bouldering mat in mind. Ooooh controversial 

Bollocks to that. I for one would rather walk away without a messed up ankle thank you v much. The extenstion of that arguement beomes is placing gear cheating? Is using radically sticky rubber shoes cheating? You do get people arguing (and being serious unlike Stephen here) that using a mat should lower the grade...so what if it does, it only lowers it in their heads and who cares? Do what you enjoy doing but why look to break bones doing it when you dont need to?