Killarney

[Stephen McMullan]

Whats the story with bouldering if you're based in Killarney? Is there anything going on in the Gap of Dunloe? Aw c'mon there must be.

Also can anyone recommend a guidebook for scrambles in Kerry? Any other info sources?

Last but not least - mountain biking - any info on where to hire and where to go?

You guessed it - we're heading there for post Xmas/New Year.

Cheers, Stephen

[Stephen McMullan]

Posted on behalf of Colin Burkley:

For scrambles, buy "munsters mountains" by denis lynch. Some fine stuff in that. Try curved gulley ridge if you can climb hs multipitch.

For bouldering, the best spot is "probably" in the big cwms near glenbeigh. No guides and it'll be virgin territory so don't blame me if it's rubbish.

[Stephen McMullan]

Posted on behalf of Gerard O'Sullivan:

call into sport carrountuohill in the outlet centre - Dennis Tangney and Con moriarty know most of the rocks in kerry.

There are some boulders scattered around the gap = theres a roadside one as the road climbs towards the head from the lakes or you can go play near rescue rocks.

best scramble is howling ridge, which you can then combine with benkerragh ridge.

bikes can be hired from most hostels, there is a bike shop - branch in carpark opposite tourist information

[Stephen McMullan]

Some more replies:

Aidan Quirke: I don't think you can rent decent downhill bikes in Killarney so The Bike Shopp on New Street, Killarney will look after to you for the run of the mill stuff. Some bouldering near the end of the Gap but it's a kinda go look and see situation as I haven't seen any guides for there or told where it is. No help really!!

Mike Dagley: Good scramble book is Munsters Mountains by Denis Lynch. The range of routes mixes walks with easy climbs. Copy in MCI Library. For biking, go to Wales in my opinion or get onto the MTB Commission/Cycling Ireland...(for them to lobby for facilities for a change. Coillte have an open ear to this but await proactive response from biking community ~ otherwise the idea of meaningful, sustainable off road riding on this island will remain an idea, at least for single track rides)...Good luck with it !

Dave Flanagan: From the forthcoming "Bouldering in Ireland Guide" - Kerry

In the Gap of Dunloe near Killarney is a small crag called Brennan's Leap right beside the road just before the Black Lake with a few low routes on some very nice red sandstone. At the north end of the Black lake is a boulder with a few nice problems. Near the top of the Gap is an overhanging boulder that might be worth a look.

The corrie in the side of Mont Brandon (Q 463 122) on the Dingle peninsula has plenty of slabby outcrops and a few isolated boulders, which are approached by the main tourist path.

The valley below the Coomasaharn horseshoe (near Glenbeigh) has lots of quality bouldering but it's a long walk. From the village of Glenbeigh instead of continuing to Cahersiveen you take a left on to a boithr?n out of the village and head for the horseshoe shaped mountain. From here it's a few hours walk to the boulders.

Hungry Hill down in West Cork on the way to Castletownbere is also a good spot. Go over to the western end (follow a boithr?n up from the main road to a little lake, then head towards the mountain. After ten or twenty minutes you will come across a giant boulder about ten meters high and made of old red sandstone with one overhanging side and a very technical ramp on the other. A little further east there is a wall with plenty of highballs.

There is at least one decent boulder about twelve kilometres north of Glengarrif on the right of the road.

Nigel Callendar: On the bouldering front, have found random boulders scattered miles apart, that are hard to find.  Basically, don't hold your breath for any major amounts, there is one place outside Killarney, 30-40 degrees overhanging for about 15-20 feet (ground slopes up behind it) and is about 60 m long, is quite loose at the mo, but when all that's pulled off it should be really good.  Probably stays dry too.

[Dave Flanagan]

Nigel Callendar: On the bouldering front, have found random boulders scattered miles apart, that are hard to find. ?Basically, don't hold your breath for any major amounts, there is one place outside Killarney, 30-40 degrees overhanging for about 15-20 feet (ground slopes up behind it) and is about 60 m long, is quite loose at the mo, but when all that's pulled off it should be really good. ?Probably stays dry too.

Yo Nigel, where is this?

[Stephen McMullan]

Whoops did I post Nigel's private email to me re Boulder X. Silly me. He'll probably tell you....in 18months time  

[NigelCallender]

Hey, just cos I wouldn't tell you where the sport routes are.....  
 As for the bouldering near killarney, get cracking, this face could be superb, and will clean up with some traffic.  Its faily hardcore though.  Basically, head from Killarney out around the lakes towards lady's view.  At some point quite a way along, the road passes right underneath a crag then swings left through a rock tunnel.  Pull in as close as you can to here.  
 the venue is clearly seen when you walk back along the road from the bridge, it extends well up the hill in about 3 sections. (more I think about it, it's probably more than 60m long).  Like I said, it is quite loose and flakey at the mo, but it will clean up. (look a parisellas cave/roadrunner cave (RIP) they were both loose as hell once).

  Will be happy to meet anyone down that way and show you what I know of over xmas. My number is 061 417055.
 as for teh overhanging boulder in the Gap. I *think* i did a problem on this years ago.  Quite high and reachy, with brown paint on the lower part.  Think it may have been about Font. 7a/b straight up centre, BUT I dont remember topping out, so I can't say for sure if I actually did it.
 Dave, it could be worth gettin in touch over xmas as there are some other very minor areas close to limerick that may be worth putting in.
Nige

[Dave Flanagan]

Send me an email Nigel.